Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2018 Review: Built on Reputation, Proven at the Table
Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2018 arrives with a reputation that precedes it. Often referred to as “Baby Grange,” it sits in a space where familiarity, structure, and brand legacy all come into play. Built on cabernet’s backbone and the richness of shiraz, we approached it expecting something composed, oak-influenced, and shaped with food in mind.
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Vintage: |
2018 |
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Region: |
South Australia |
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Varietal: |
Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz |
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ABV: |
14.5% |
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RRP: |
~$100 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
Deep red to maroon in the glass, with a dense core and no visible browning at the rim. Clarity is clean, with a sense of weight without heaviness. Swirled, it forms a light arc and medium-paced legs, suggesting presence without heaviness.
Aroma / Nose
The nose opens with oak and dry spice, with cedar sitting prominently alongside it while fruit remains further back. With air, there is some lift, and darker fruit begins to emerge, though the overall impression remains composed and oak-led rather than fruit-forward.
Palate / Taste
The first sip opens with a brief lift of fruit, present but not sweet, before the wine settles into a more controlled, savoury frame. Dark berry notes sit closer to black cherry than brighter red fruit, though they do not hold centre stage for long. Oak and tannin follow quickly, shaping the palate and guiding the wine into a firmer, more composed expression.
Tannins build gradually through the swallow, spreading across the tongue and settling along the cheeks and gums with a gentle grip. There is a noticeable warmth that rises through the back of the nose and throat, though it remains integrated rather than sharp. A subtle tingling sensation appears on the aftertaste, adding a tactile edge to the wine’s profile.
With more time in the glass, the fruit becomes more expressive, showing briefly at the front before settling back into spice and oak.
Finish
The finish is persistent, carrying a dry, composed impression rather than extending through fruit. A gentle warmth lingers, along with a faint echo of dark berry beneath the spice.
Food Pairing
We built the pairing around ribeye, duck fat potatoes, rocket with shaved pecorino, and Snowdonia Cheese Company Black Bomber cheddar.
With the ribeye, the wine opened up after each bite, showing a clearer lift of dark fruit before settling back into its savoury core. The finish felt firmer, with a gentle drying effect across the palate.
The potatoes pushed the wine further into a savoury direction. Brighter notes softened, while tannin and acidity became more apparent, giving the wine a tighter feel.
The rocket and pecorino worked unexpectedly well. The wine amplified the pepperiness of the leaves, which in turn brought a touch of fruit back into focus, adding contrast without disrupting its flow.
The standout pairing was the Black Bomber cheddar. It brought everything into balance, lifting the fruit while softening the edges and rounding the acidity. The cheese also developed a deeper savoury, almost umami quality alongside the wine. This was where the wine felt most complete.
The wine remained easy to enjoy on its own. While each element shifted its expression, it never felt dependent on food to be appreciated.
With Chinese-style dishes
We also tested the wine alongside tempura duck with a kecap manis and vinegar sauce, xiaolongbao, and barbecue pork buns.
With the duck, the fruit held its place, though the wine showed a firmer edge through the finish. At times, a peppery sensation appeared at the front of the tongue, more tactile than flavour-driven.
With xiaolongbao, the wine leaned further into savoury tones, leaving only a faint echo of berry behind.
The barbecue pork bun was the surprise. Despite its sweetness, the pairing stayed balanced. Each sip allowed a brief lift of fruit before returning to a more composed, savoury finish.
The wine proved more adaptable than expected, handling sweetness, acidity, and savoury elements without losing its shape.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Yes, particularly if you value structure and food pairing over immediate impact.
This is not a wine that demands attention on its own. It shows restraint, with fruit present but quickly framed by oak and tannin. With time and the right pairing, it becomes more complete, softening into something more balanced and expressive.
We would drink it again, especially alongside a considered meal. It is reliable, composed, and capable across a wider range of pairings than expected. The standout was with cheese, where the wine felt most resolved.
Kiki’s take, as my tasting partner, was simple. Even without food, it felt worth its price. It is easy to see how this style appeals, particularly for those familiar with Penfolds. For us, it impressed more through consistency than excitement. It delivers what it promises, though it leaves more respect than attachment.
Structured and dependable. A reputation earned one pairing at a time.
Editor’s Note
This review reflects our experience with the wine across multiple meals and settings rather than a single tasting session. Evaluating it alongside different cuisines allowed us to observe how consistently it behaved across a range of food pairings.
Adrian, Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
