Penfolds FWT 585 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Petit Verdot 2022 Review: An Australian Take on Bordeaux Structure
Penfolds FWT 585 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Petit Verdot 2022 is part of the winery’s ongoing French Winemaking Trial, sourcing fruit from Bordeaux while applying Penfolds winemaking techniques and blending philosophy. Given the Cabernet-led composition and the project’s Australian interpretation of French fruit, we approached this tasting looking closely at how the wine balanced freshness, structure, grip, and savoury persistence, particularly across different food pairings. The central question became whether the wine felt naturally integrated on its own, or whether it performed more convincingly alongside softer and more textural foods.
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Vintage: |
2022 |
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Region: |
Vin de France |
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Varietal: |
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot |
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ABV: |
14% |
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RRP: |
~$98.99 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
In the glass, the wine showed a deep ruby to purple core with very little visibility through the centre. The rim faded gradually to ruby before narrowing into a thin clear edge. Under direct light, the wine showed a slight haze rather than absolute clarity, reinforcing the sense of density and youth already visible in the glass. The legs formed thin, messy streams that fell at a medium to fast pace against the bowl of the glass.
Aroma / Nose
Before swirling, spice arrived first ahead of any obvious fruit. With air, the nose widened into fresher red berry notes alongside a sweeter floral lift. There was also a faint dusty or mineral edge sitting underneath the fruit. Despite the wine’s dark and concentrated appearance, the aroma profile felt more restrained and structured than the colour initially suggested. Oak remained relatively controlled throughout and never dominated the glass.
Palate / Taste
The palate opened with an immediate hit of fresh red berry fruit across the front of the tongue. The fruit felt juicy rather than jammy, giving the wine a fresher entry than the appearance initially suggested. Swallowing remained relatively gentle, though bitterness gradually spread across the tongue alongside warmth at the back of the throat. Grip quickly became a defining part of the experience. Initially firm but controlled, the tannins became increasingly drying and powdery over time, particularly into the second glass.
A lingering green or herbal note also began to emerge through the finish, sitting alongside the persistent structure rather than the fruit itself. While full-bodied overall, the wine consistently behaved more like a structurally driven blend than a broad or plush one. The fruit repeatedly appeared early before slowly giving way to grip, savoury edges, and lingering tannin.
Finish
The finish leaned structural rather than fruit-driven. Grip lingered consistently after swallowing, eventually becoming more powdery and drying as the tasting continued. Warmth remained present, though generally controlled, while the fresher berry notes faded earlier than the tannin and savoury elements. The overall impression was less about immediate richness and more about persistence, shape, and texture.
Food Pairing
Food dramatically changed the wine throughout the tasting. Edam brought the fresher berry fruit back to the front of the palate while softening the warmth at the back of the throat. Snowdonia Black Bomber proved one of the strongest pairings, broadening the fruit through the swallow while mellowing both grip and bitterness.
Snowdonia Rock Star allowed the structure to return slightly, though the berry fruit still remained present early. Red Storm pushed the wine back toward acidity and grip, while Wagyu bresaola brought some of the powdery structure back after the initial fruit. Interestingly, squid ink and truffle salami maintained a relatively balanced presentation without excessively amplifying either the fruit or the tannin.
The least successful pairing was Italian salami with fennel, which tightened the wine considerably and pushed the structure forward. One of the more surprising combinations came from a white bean dip with garlic and basil. Rather than clashing with the wine’s lingering green edge, the softer texture calmed the grip significantly and created one of the gentlest, most balanced moments of the tasting. Across most pairings, the wine consistently responded best to softer, creamier, and more cushioning textures rather than sharper or heavily herbal foods.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Penfolds FWT 585 2022 proved more rewarding with thoughtful food pairings than as a standalone wine.
On its own, the powdery grip and lingering structural edge slowly began to dominate the experience over time. With the right foods, however, the wine became noticeably more composed and enjoyable, allowing the fresher berry fruit to carry further through the palate while calming the tannin. At its best, the structure stopped feeling dominant and instead became part of a more balanced and satisfying drinking experience.
This never felt like a plush or immediately comforting Cabernet blend. Instead, it behaved as a structurally persistent wine that responded strongly to texture and balance around it. We enjoyed it most once the tasting shifted away from analysing the grip itself and toward discovering which foods helped the wine settle into harmony.
Less about power, more about what the right pairing unlocks.
Editor’s Note
This wine was tasted over a long lunch alongside a range of cheeses, cured meats, and a white bean dip. Because the wine’s structure responded noticeably to different textures and flavours, the food pairing observations became an important part of the overall evaluation rather than a separate consideration.
Adrian, Editor at All That Is Cool
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All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
