Yalumba The Menzies Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 Review: Structured, Responsive, and Built for the Table
The Menzies is Yalumba’s estate Cabernet Sauvignon from the heart of Coonawarra’s terra rossa strip, sourced from vines planted in the mid-1990s. It spends 18 months in French and Hungarian oak, including a portion of new barrels, placing it firmly within the classic, cellar-worthy regional style.
The label and name lean heritage rather than contemporary minimalism. Expectations going in were for structure, integration, and longevity instead of overt aromatic display. We opened the 2022 over lunch with a mixed cheese board and sliced beef to see how it would behave both by itself and alongside food.
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Vintage: |
2022 |
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Region: |
Coonawarra, South Australia |
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Varietal: |
Cabernet Sauvignon |
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ABV: |
14.0% |
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RRP: |
$50+ AUD |
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Format: |
750 mL |
Appearance
Deep crimson through the core, holding its colour almost to the rim without tipping into brown. The wine is clear but dense, difficult to see through, suggesting concentration rather than opacity. It reads youthful and structured in the glass. Legs form slowly but fall quickly, indicating weight without excess viscosity.
Aroma / Nose
On first pass, the nose is balanced and reserved. There is no overt spice, no dominant oak, and no savoury funk. Fruit presence is subtle.
With swirling, the profile remains restrained. Gentle barrel notes and light spice emerge without pushing forward. Kiki noted a touch of tobacco. The fruit reads as dark berries held in check. When the glass was briefly covered and revisited, a faint floral lift appeared, though the overall impression stayed measured.
Palate / Taste
The first sip opens more freely than the nose suggests. Fruit arrives clearly and almost juicy, giving an immediate sense of generosity. Through the mid-palate that fruit holds before oak and alcohol appear on the swallow, warming through the back of the throat and nose without spiking sharply.
Tannins grip across the cheeks and gums, building with each sip. As the structure firms, the fruit becomes less juicy and more controlled. A light bitterness lingers on the tongue after the swallow.
The wine is not sweet, yet it feels full-bodied and substantial, with fruit and structure working in deliberate balance.
Finish
The finish is responsive rather than fixed. When tasted alone, fruit tends to reappear after the swallow, supported by firm but composed structure. With food, the wine shifts emphasis, bringing different elements forward depending on the pairing.
It doesn’t dominate the plate. Instead, it adjusts to it. That sense of interaction becomes part of the experience.
Food Pairing
Edam: Slightly quietens the fruit, bringing spice and oak into clearer focus. The aftertaste returns to fruit.
Cheddar: Softens the wine noticeably. The cheese reads creamier, and the finish again resolves back to fruit.
Truffle brie: Further gentles alcohol and oak through the throat. The brie integrates smoothly without overwhelming the wine.
Persian fetta: Does not increase perceived acidity but makes oak more evident. The wine remains controlled rather than sharp.
Across the cheeses, acidity and alcohol feel softened through the throat and nose, allowing the structure to sit more comfortably.
Sliced beef (salt and pepper): Brings structure into clearer focus. Oak and acidity remain balanced and do not overpower. A faint effervescence appears at the tip of the tongue, adding lift.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Yes. This is a Cabernet that holds up perfectly well in the glass while clearly responding to food. The palate opens with generous fruit, the body feels full without sweetness, and the structure builds in a composed, measured way. Oak and alcohol stay warming without dominating, allowing the wine to feel complete even without a plate.
What makes it interesting is how it adapts. With food, it shifts emphasis and becomes more interactive. On its own, it still holds attention through balance and texture.
A structured Coonawarra Cabernet that doesn’t demand food, but rewards it.
Editor’s Note
This bottle was opened and evaluated over lunch with a small selection of cheeses and sliced beef. Observations reflect how the wine behaved both by itself and alongside food during the tasting. All impressions are based on our direct experience with the bottle opened for this review.
–Adrian – Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
