Hewitson Strawberry Hill Shiraz 2022 Review: Fruit, Structure and a Barossa Ease
Hewitson Strawberry Hill Shiraz 2022 takes its name from the old strawberry patch beside the vineyard and is matured for eighteen months in French oak barrels of varying age and origin. Built on heritage Barossa fruit and careful winemaking, it aims to strike a balance between approachability and depth. We opened it with curiosity, expecting a fruit-driven Shiraz, but wondering whether it would reveal more structure and nuance over time at the table.
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Vintage: |
2022 |
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Region: |
Barossa Valley, South Australia |
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Varietal: |
Shiraz |
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ABV: |
13.5% |
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RRP: |
~$150 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
A bright, youthful core with deep ruby-purple hues, clear and vibrant, with fast-moving legs that suggest a slightly lighter frame despite the richness in colour.
Aroma / Nose
Without a swirl, there is a noticeable alcohol lift with a lightly fermented edge. With air, it opens quickly into fresh dark berries and plum, leaning ripe without tipping fully into jammy territory. Given time, softer layers begin to show, with light florals and a touch of chocolate sitting behind the fruit and hinting at more complexity than the first impression suggests.
Palate / Taste
The first sip is generous and sweet, led by ripe dark fruit with a broad, almost lush feel, followed by a line of acidity on the swallow that keeps that richness in check. As the wine settles, the shape shifts, with the fruit stepping back slightly and structure taking more control. Tannins begin gently, then build across the gums with time in the glass, while cassis and mulberry lift through the mid-palate to keep the profile bright even as the structure firms. What starts as open and expressive gradually becomes more controlled, with the balance moving from fruit toward tension.
Finish
The finish carries a short echo of fruit before tightening, with acidity running clean through the swallow and tannins building steadily across the gums. With food, the profile shifts noticeably, structure becoming more pronounced and at times slightly drying, though in the right pairing the fruit returns to soften the close. The length holds quietly, maintaining its shape rather than fading away.
Food Pairing
This Shiraz proved more adaptable than expected, moving comfortably across different textures and styles.
Persian fetta: brought out a sweeter edge, closer to raspberry, softening tannins for me while Kiki found them more pronounced.
Cottage cheese: built body and lifted acidity, giving the wine a rounder feel.
Prosciutto: sharpened the front of the palate and lifted darker fruit.
Fried chicken: held some sweetness up front while introducing a subtle structural edge, the crisp texture helping frame the wine.
Richer or fattier foods tended to draw structure forward, but the wine adapted rather than pushing back. With duck, that balance became more sensitive. Tempura duck breast pushed the wine toward structure, with oak and acidity taking over and the finish drying out. In contrast, Thai duck noodle soup brought better integration, the combination of spice, fat, and sweetness allowing enough fruit to return and restore balance.
For a Barossa Shiraz, that level of flexibility stands out, moving comfortably between richer Western dishes and layered Asian flavours.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Yes, with food, this justifies the splurge. What begins as a fruit-forward Shiraz evolves into something more structured and controlled, and that progression is where it becomes engaging. It does not rely on power. Instead, it responds to what is on the table, shifting its balance rather than holding a fixed shape.
We would happily drink it again, particularly in a shared setting where that adaptability can come through. It is drinking well now, though a few years may soften the edges further. Positioned as a premium Barossa red, it leans into balance over intensity, and in the right context, that pays off.
Versatile, responsive, and at its best when the table is doing some of the work.
Editor’s Note
According to the Vintage Journal South Australian Wine Guide, Strawberry Hill is known for rich black fruits, cassis, and finely integrated oak. The 2022 vintage is noted for its length and balance, with potential to hold through to 2034. Our experience echoed many of these qualities, but what stood out was how much the wine shifted depending on the pairing. That movement between openness and structure is where it becomes most engaging.
Adrian, Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
