Wirra Wirra The Angelus Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 Review: Structured, Controlled, but Does It Fully Open?
Wirra Wirra The Angelus Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 takes its name from the large bell positioned above the winery’s historic cellars, traditionally rung to mark the beginning and end of vintage in McLaren Vale. Reserved for selected Cabernet Sauvignon parcels within the winery’s range, we approached the wine interested in how balance between ripeness, tannin, wood influence, and savoury restraint played out both in the glass and alongside food.
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Vintage: |
2020 |
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Region: |
McLaren Vale, South Australia |
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Varietal: |
Cabernet Sauvignon |
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ABV: |
13.5% |
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RRP: |
~$77.99 AUD |
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Format: |
750 mL |
Appearance
Medium to deep ruby in the glass, with a core that sits just shy of opaque. Light still passes through the centre, while the rim remains clean with no browning, showing a faint pink edge that points to a relatively youthful wine. Legs fall quickly on the swirl, suggesting moderate alcohol and lighter weight than the colour initially implies.
Aroma / Nose
Initially the nose leans toward spice and oak, with the primary notes held fairly tightly. The opening feels reserved and narrowly composed, without giving away much early.
With air, restrained red berry notes begin to emerge, presenting more as ripeness than sweetness while remaining secondary to the wine’s savoury framing. Raw tobacco, dried herbs, and spice gradually build around the edges, adding depth without introducing any obvious green character. Oak remains measured throughout, contributing shape and warmth without dominating.
Overall, the nose stays restrained, favouring savoury complexity and structural tension over early openness.
Palate / Taste
It opens with plum and mulberry before tightening through the mid-section. Fine tannins and barrel spice gradually take control, shifting the wine away from richness and toward grip and dryness.
Texture becomes the defining feature: chalk-like tannins build steadily across the gums and cheeks while acidity keeps the wine composed and upright. Nothing feels heavy, yet the darker notes recede earlier than expected, leaving spice, dryness, and structural persistence to shape the second half. The overall impression is deliberate and controlled, though not especially generous.
Finish
The finish is driven by grip and herbaceous persistence more than lingering richness. Fine tannins continue drying the palate without becoming harsh, while spice and wood-derived warmth remain present across the length.
A subtle warmth also rises at the back of the throat on the swallow. Despite the moderate 13.5% ABV, the wine occasionally presents warmer than expected, likely due to the way tannin and barrel influence frame the finish rather than from alcohol weight alone.
Food Pairing
Initial pairing with Girgarre Reserve Matured Organic Cheddar brought the wine into better balance. Darker berry notes gained depth, acidity felt more integrated, and a subtle herbaceous edge appeared on the swallow. This was the most complete expression of the wine across the tasting.
Chicken breast schnitzel proved serviceable rather than transformative. Some berry character remained, though bitterness and barrel influence became increasingly dominant during the meal. The warmth on the finish also became slightly more noticeable, though still controlled overall.
The rocket salad with olive oil, salt, and pecorino worked slightly better, softening some of the bitterness at the back of the palate and bringing greater balance to the wine’s overall shape. Across all pairings, the wine handled food competently without clashing, but rarely evolved beyond its tightly structured core.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Not quite. This is a technically sound Cabernet Sauvignon that shows restraint, control, and a clear stylistic direction, but it never fully opens into something especially compelling. The wine consistently prioritises grip, savoury framing, and oak over generosity or progression, and while that restraint feels intentional, it also limits the emotional payoff.
With the right food, the wine gains better balance and a little more depth, though it still stops short of becoming genuinely engaging. There’s a sense throughout the tasting that the wine is asking for patience and careful pairing, yet the reward never fully arrives.
We’d happily finish the bottle, but we wouldn’t actively seek it out again.
A wine that asks for patience, without fully rewarding it.
Editor’s Note
This wine was tasted across both standalone and food-paired conditions over the course of an evening, including matured cheddar, chicken schnitzel, and a rocket salad with olive oil and pecorino. The pairing progression was useful in understanding how the wine’s structure, warmth, and savoury elements behaved as different textures and salt levels were introduced.
Adrian, Editor at All That Is Cool
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All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
