1847 First Pick Shiraz 2020 Review: Power with a Savoury Edge
1847 First Pick Shiraz 2020 is a premium Barossa Shiraz positioned at the upper end of the category, both stylistically and financially. With its elevated alcohol, concentrated profile, and prestige-tier pricing, the tasting focused less on immediate richness and more on how the wine balanced fruit, oak, tannin, bitterness, and warmth across both standalone drinking and food pairings. The question was whether that layered, savoury-leaning profile ultimately justified its premium positioning.
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Vintage: |
2020 |
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Region: |
Barossa Valley |
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Varietal: |
Shiraz |
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ABV: |
14.9% |
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RRP: |
~$300+ AUD |
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Format: |
750 mL |
Appearance
In the glass, the wine showed a deep ruby core that pushed toward purple under certain lighting. While heavily concentrated, it stopped short of complete opacity, still allowing a slight degree of visibility through the centre of the glass.
The rim transitioned gradually from dark ruby to lighter ruby before fading clear at the edge. Clarity remained clean throughout with no visible sediment.
After swirling, the legs formed uneven arcs against the bowl. Some tears ran quickly, while others descended more slowly, hinting at both elevated alcohol and concentration without becoming syrupy in appearance.
Aroma / Nose
Before swirling, the nose felt surprisingly restrained given the wine’s reputation and alcohol level. Muted dark fruit appeared first, though oak and spice remained subdued initially.
With air, the profile opened considerably. Plum became more prominent alongside vanilla and hints of leather. The wine moved away from simple ripe fruit and into something more savoury and mature in tone.
Despite the oak presence, it never felt excessively sweet or heavily charred. Instead, the aromatic profile remained cohesive, with fruit, oak, spice, and savoury notes unfolding together rather than competing for attention.
Palate / Taste
The palate opened with a bold wave of plum fruit before gradually shifting into spice, warmth, bitterness, and tannin as the wine sat in the mouth.
Tannins gripped the cheeks, gums, and tongue firmly, though without harshness. The texture carried a velvety density rather than aggressive dryness, giving the wine weight and control while still allowing moments of softness through the mid-palate.
One of the more interesting aspects was how the alcohol behaved. Initially, there was very little immediate heat on entry despite the 14.9% ABV. Instead, warmth slowly built after swallowing, emerging retronasally and at the back of the throat alongside a broadening bitterness across the tongue.
That bitterness became a defining feature of the wine. Rather than sitting separately, it folded into the spice, warmth, and oak profile, making the wine feel deliberate and composed rather than overtly fruit-driven.
Over time, the wine increasingly felt like an example of well-integrated fruit and oak. Plum and dark berry notes remained present throughout the lunch, though they were continually shaped by savoury spice, tannin, warmth, and lingering bitterness rather than dominating the experience outright.
Finish
The finish lingered through warmth, spice, and savoury bitterness more than pure fruit sweetness. While the plum and berry notes arrived confidently at the front of the palate, the wine consistently closed in a darker and more controlled direction.
The retronasal warmth persisted long after swallowing, particularly without food, reinforcing the wine’s powerful frame and high-alcohol construction.
Rather than fading softly, the wine maintained presence and tension through the finish, though occasional pairings allowed softer and more layered elements to emerge.
Food Pairing
Food changed the wine considerably, often revealing different sides of its personality depending on the pairing.
Edam kept the wine relatively stable while amplifying the nuttiness of the cheese itself.
Snowdonia Rock Star concentrated the plum and berry notes toward the front of the tongue while noticeably reducing the retronasal warmth. It also heightened the cheese’s umami character.
Snowdonia Smoked Beechwood created one of the more interesting interactions of the lunch. The smokiness seemed to sit between the fruit and warmth, softening the wine’s firmer edges and making the swallow feel gentler overall.
Snowdonia Red Storm moved the wine in the opposite direction. While the creamy texture worked initially, it amplified the wine’s bitterness significantly.
Wagyu bresaola and squid ink & truffle salami both suited the wine particularly well, allowing the fruit, oak, spice, and warmth to feel more layered and complete together.
Italian salami pushed the wine back toward its more savoury and tannic side, bringing the firmer elements further into focus.
Across the lunch, the wine consistently appeared more convincing alongside savoury and umami-driven foods than with softer or creamier pairings.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Yes, though not without reservation. 1847 First Pick Shiraz 2020 felt less like a wine chasing immediate pleasure and more like one built around presence, savoury layering, and gradual progression across the palate.
There is no question that it is serious, concentrated, and technically impressive. The integration between fruit, oak, bitterness, spice, tannin, and warmth often felt deliberate and controlled rather than excessive. With the right food, particularly cured meats and smokier pairings, the wine became considerably more complete and convincing.
At the same time, the conversation around value never fully disappeared throughout the lunch. This was not the kind of prestige Shiraz that instantly resolves itself emotionally from the first sip. Instead, it invited discussion, reassessment, and repeated analysis as the bottle continued to open.
That complexity made it compelling. Whether it fully justified its premium pricing is a more difficult question. We respected it throughout the lunch. But more than anything, we kept analysing it.
Layered, savoury, and highly composed. A wine that asks for attention as much as admiration.
Editor’s Note
This wine was assessed both on its own and alongside a range of cheeses and cured meats during a long lunch. Several of the observations in this review, particularly around tannin, bitterness, warmth, and fruit expression, changed noticeably depending on the pairing.
Adrian, Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
