Wicks Estate C.J. Wicks Pinot Noir 2023 Review: A Pinot That Gets the Balance Right
Wicks Estate positions its 2023 C.J. Wicks Pinot Noir as a bright, elegant and approachable expression of Adelaide Hills Pinot. That combination makes for an interesting proposition: a Pinot intended to be easy to enjoy without sacrificing the structure and complexity expected as you move beyond simpler expressions of the variety. We tasted it across a range of foods to see how well that balance holds together in the glass and at the table.
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Vintage: |
2023 |
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Region: |
Adelaide Hills |
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Varietal: |
Pinot Noir |
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ABV: |
13.5% |
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RRP: |
~$43.99 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
Relatively pale and very clear, with a garnet core that becomes increasingly translucent towards a near-clear rim. The legs are thick and irregular before falling quickly.
Visually, there isn’t much to suggest the weight that eventually appears on the palate.
Aroma / Nose
Without swirling, raspberry and strawberry are immediately apparent. There is little obvious oak or funk at first, and the overall impression is predominantly fresh red fruit.
Swirling increases the intensity of the raspberry and strawberry rather than substantially changing the profile. Spice and oak remain restrained, leaving the nose fruit and floral-led. Kiki also picked up a herbaceous element underneath. It’s an open, approachable nose without being particularly complex.
Palate / Taste
The fruit shifts slightly on the palate. Rather than simply repeating the raspberry and strawberry of the nose, the initial impression is closer to sour cherry or another slightly tart red fruit.
Silky tannins spread across the cheeks and gums, with acidity and a measured bitterness giving the wine structure. There is some warmth at the back of the throat on swallowing, but the acidity, bitterness and tartness of the fruit remain in step rather than pulling in different directions.
Despite its pale colour and relatively delicate aroma, this feels closer to medium-bodied once tasted. The structure gives it greater presence than expected without making it feel heavy.
The fruit keeps it approachable, with tannin, acidity and occasional savoury character preventing it from becoming simplistic.
Finish
Red fruit continues through the finish, accompanied by acidity, light bitterness and some warmth. None dominates enough to make the finish feel particularly rough or sharp.
Food Pairing
The salt-rubbed rump beef was our best overall match. It revealed the red berries across the back of the palate, with acidity and bitterness remaining in balance. The wine retained its fruit and had the structure to sit comfortably alongside the beef.
Tempura pork loin produced a different progression. Acidity and bitterness were noticeable initially, but red berries returned clearly through the finish.
Spring rolls were perhaps the most interesting pairing. Much of the fruit receded and the wine became considerably more savoury, with oak easier to identify. The acidity and bitterness remained controlled. It wasn’t our best pairing, but we enjoyed seeing a different side of the wine.
An earlier Thai omelette with beef had a similar effect, making the oak apparent while reducing some of the warmth on the swallow and leaving the wine feeling fresh and lively.
Coleslaw was the clear mismatch. The flavours simply didn’t line up particularly well, and we preferred eating it alongside the other food rather than following it with a sip of wine.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Yes. The C.J. Wicks is a well-balanced, versatile Pinot Noir that we both enjoyed.
Pinot Noir can be a difficult middle ground. Lighter examples can lack substance, while structured expressions can allow acidity, bitterness or oak to become too prominent. The C.J. Wicks avoids those extremes. There is clear red fruit, tartness that keeps it lively, silky tannin and a savoury side that becomes apparent with food, without any one element taking over.
It isn’t an amazing or particularly profound Pinot, but that’s not really its appeal. It feels complete and easy to enjoy, with enough complexity to remain interesting. The rump beef brought out its most harmonious side, while the spring rolls showed how readily it could shift from fruit towards a savoury expression.
A balanced all-rounder with enough complexity to stay interesting.
Editor’s Note
This review reflects our experience across two bottles of the C.J. Wicks Pinot Noir 2023. We returned to the wine with a varied lunch to explore how its fruit, structure and savoury character responded to different foods.
Adrian, Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
