Penfolds Bin 138 GSM 2020 Review: Balanced, But Constantly Shifting
This Penfolds take on a GSM carries an expectation of polish and structure. What it delivers is something more fluid. A wine that moves between elements rather than settling into one. Oak, dark fruit, acidity, tannin, and a trace of warmth all show up, but not in a fixed order. It evolves with air and with food, which becomes the defining part of the experience.
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Vintage: |
2020 |
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Region: |
Barossa Valley, South Australia |
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Varietal: |
Grenache Shiraz Mataro (GSM) |
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ABV: |
14.5% |
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RRP: |
From $60 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
Deep purple core with a youthful, vibrant rim, leaning toward purple rather than garnet, suggesting freshness. Legs form slowly and fall at a moderate pace, indicating weight without heaviness.
Aroma / Nose
Without swirling, the nose leans into dry, spiced oak. With air, it opens quickly, bringing forward lifted fruit layered over that woody frame. The profile feels composed but active, shifting as it sits.
Palate / Taste
The entry shows a hint of sweetness before tightening, with acidity rising through the mid-palate to give definition and lift. On the swallow, warmth appears briefly before darker fruit settles in behind it. Tannins grip through the gums with clear intent, shaping the wine more than softening it, with structure leading and fruit following.
Finish
The finish holds firm, driven by tannin and dark fruit. Early pours show a sharper edge, but with time this settles into a more composed expression as the warmth integrates. A slightly gritty texture appears, adding a more tactile, grounded feel to the close.
Food Pairing
We tested this across a range of simple pairings to see how the structure and warmth shifted with different textures.
Edam: Softens the warmth while bringing the oak forward
Persian fetta: Lifts the fruit and spice, easing the structure
Cottage cheese: follows a similar line to fetta, though more subtle
Roast beef slice: keeps some sweetness before structure takes over
Roast chicken slice: firms the frame while allowing a fruit-led finish
The wine adapts well to both fat and salt…
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Yes, this is worth the splurge. Not because it dominates in any one area, but because it continues to shift and respond, especially at the table.
This is not a static wine. It changes with air, temperature, and food, moving between firmness and generosity without fully committing to either. That sense of movement becomes its strength. We would return to it in a food setting, where its structure has something to work against.
Layered, responsive, and more compelling over time than at first pour.
Editor’s Note
This tasting was carried out over a single afternoon, with food pairings tested side by side to observe how the wine shifted across different textures and flavours. The notes reflect both individual and shared impressions, including a faint floral lift noted alongside the cottage cheese. As the bottle opened, the structure softened slightly while the wine became more cohesive overall.
Adrian, Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
