Thicker Than Water Legacy Shiraz 2021 Review: Respectable but Not Moving
We approached the Thicker Than Water Legacy Shiraz 2021 with curiosity, expecting a polished McLaren Vale Shiraz with both fruit and depth. It held back early, revealing itself gradually as it opened, with air and food bringing more into view.
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Vintage: |
2021 |
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Region: |
McLaren Vale, SA |
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Varietal: |
Shiraz |
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ABV: |
14.5% |
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RRP: |
~$120 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
Deep ruby at the core with a bright crimson rim, showing youthful energy. The wine is clean and clear in the glass. On the swirl, arcs form with fast-running legs, pointing to moderate body and alcohol lift.
Aroma / Nose
Without swirling: wood-led, with fruit sitting quietly behind.
After swirling: berry notes begin to lift, supported by a firmer frame. The shift is noticeable, suggesting more will emerge with time in the glass.
Palate / Taste
First sip is smooth and silky, with a light touch of sweetness on the tongue. A firmer frame builds quickly, shaping both aroma and flavour. Sweet berry fruit appears briefly before being redirected by spice and a clean line of acidity along the roof of the mouth. The swallow remains controlled, while tannins grip at the cheeks and gums.
Finish
The swallow is even, with tannins holding their line through the finish. With food, this shifts: a brief sweetness appears before fading, leaving spice and grip to carry the final impression.
Food Pairing
Edam: Softens the wine, drawing out gentle sweetness with hints of vanilla. Acidity drops, though tannins hold their ground.
Prosciutto: Pushes structure forward while tempering sweetness. Spice sharpens across the tongue.
Persian fetta: Adds shape, showing acidity and structure in balance.
Roast chicken breast (cold): Echoes the feta pairing, with acidity and structure carrying through.
Fresh strawberry: Surprisingly forgiving, the wine held its line without clashing.
Roast beef brisket with sweet potato mash: Gave the wine more shape and depth. A flicker of fruit sweetness surfaced, but control quickly reasserted itself.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Not quite, though it shows moments of composure with the right conditions. Thicker Than Water’s Legacy Shiraz 2021 revealed itself slowly, muted at first, then showing berries, spice, and control as it opened. Food consistently brought out its better side, from the softness with Edam to the added depth alongside brisket. On its own, it leaned wood-led and composed rather than expansive.
It’s a wine with shape and some finesse, yet it never quite stirred us. Even the label, with its slightly dated styling, feels at odds with the price point, competent but not compelling.
It holds together, but doesn’t leave a mark.
Editor’s Note
This bottle came together over a relaxed lunch with cheese, cured meats, and a few mismatched pairings. What stood out wasn’t how it performed on its own, but how consistently it improved with food. Tannins softened, small pockets of fruit appeared, and the wine became easier to stay with across the meal.
Adrian, Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
