Manser 100 Year Old Vines Reserve Grenache 2022 Review: A Grenache That Shifts with Time and Food
Century-old vineyards carry weight in Australian wine, though not every bottle translates that into nuance. The Manser 100 Year Old Vines Reserve Grenache 2022 from Blewitt Springs leans into that heritage, evolving with air, food, and attention. This is not a simple, fruit-led expression. It’s layered, responsive, and asks a little more from you.
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Vintage: |
2022 |
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Region: |
McLaren Vale, South Australia |
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Varietal: |
Grenache |
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ABV: |
14.7% |
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RRP: |
From $60 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
Bright ruby with a transparent core and a soft fade at the rim. Clarity is excellent, almost jewel-like. The legs fall steadily, suggesting balance rather than weight.
Aroma / Nose
At rest, the nose leans savoury, with spice and subtle oak setting the tone. With air, red-berry notes begin to lift, edging toward a riper profile while the oak settles into the background, supporting rather than leading.
Palate / Taste
The opening impression carries a gentle, natural sweetness, never sugary, just enough to soften the entry. Red-berry richness moves through the mid-palate before a firm grip builds across the cheeks and gums, present but controlled. Acidity keeps everything defined, while a quiet warmth follows, hinting at structure beneath the fruit.
Finish
The finish is shaped by acidity and warmth, with berry notes and oak lingering in balance. Tannins leave a clear, dry impression, defined without becoming aggressive, giving the wine presence without heaviness.
Food Pairing
We opened the bottle over lunch, tasting through a range of savoury dishes before returning to it later that evening. Food consistently shifted the wine toward a firmer, more structured expression.
Edam brought tannin and oak forward, with sweetness pulling back
Persian fetta (Melb Cheese Co) softened the edges, creating a more restrained, savoury profile
Hummus on rosemary crackers sharpened the oak impression, with little fruit showing
White bean and garlic dip leaned further into structure, interesting but not its strongest showing
Cold roast beef brisket lifted acidity and grip, reducing the wine’s initial generosity
Across salty and umami-driven dishes, the wine consistently leaned firm and structured. Fattier elements helped soften the edges without pushing it toward sweetness.
Later that evening, alongside fried duck and roast potato, it shifted again. Oak moved forward, a brief sweetness appeared at the front, and the fruit sat further back. More restrained, but still expressive, showing how time, temperature, and context continue to reshape it.
This is not a broadly accommodating style. At the table, it leans into structure, with its more generous side appearing when given space.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Yes, though it depends on what you want from a Grenache.
This is a wine that moves between generosity and restraint, shifting with air, food, and time rather than settling into a single expression. It doesn’t aim to charm immediately. Instead, it reveals itself in stages, sometimes bright, sometimes firm, occasionally edging toward ripeness, but always controlled.
We found it more rewarding as an experience than a default pour. It’s a bottle you open with intent, not habit, and one that gives more back the longer you stay with it.
It was worth opening, and one we’d return to, though not for every occasion.
Layered, shifting, and best approached with patience rather than expectation.
Editor’s Note
We opened this over a relaxed weekend lunch, curious to see how a century-old site would present itself. What began as spice and structure gradually opened into something more balanced, before tightening again later in the evening. It never settled in one place, which ultimately became the point. Some bottles don’t present a single answer. They evolve, and ask you to follow.
Adrian, Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
