Hewitson Strawberry Hill Shiraz 2022 Review – Fruit, Structure, and a Barossa Ease
Named for the old strawberry patch beside the vineyard, Strawberry Hill is matured for eighteen months in French oak barrels of varying age and origin. Combined with heritage fruit and careful winemaking, it aims to balance approachability with depth. We opened it with curiosity — would this be a simple fruit-driven bottle, or something that unfolds with more layers at the table?
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Vintage: |
2022 |
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Region: |
Barossa Valley, South Australia |
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Varietal: |
Shiraz |
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ABV: |
13.5% |
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RRP: |
Premium market positioning |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
Bright youthful core with deep ruby-purple hues. Clear and vibrant in the glass. Legs are plentiful and run fast, hinting at higher alcohol and lighter body weight compared to more structured Shiraz.
Aroma / Nose
Without a swirl, there’s a slightly strong alcohol and fermented edge. With air, it opens quickly into lots of fresh fruit — dark berries and hints of plum. Not jammy, but leaning close to that territory with ripeness. Subtler notes of florals and chocolate emerge with time, giving a glimpse of the complexity behind the fruit.
Palate / Taste
The first sip is rich and sweet, filled with full fruit — almost jammy, balanced by a touch of acidity on the swallow. With continued sipping, the fruit retreats slightly, allowing the structure and acidity to step forward. The fruit lingers as an aftertaste but evolves toward a more sour edge. Tannins are gentle at first, gripping the gums subtly, then gradually building with time in the glass. There’s a lift of cassis and mulberry in the mid-palate, keeping it bright even as the acidity firms.
Finish
The finish begins with echoes of fruit but quickly shifts toward structure. Acidity carries through the swallow, while tannins build gradually across the gums. With food, oak and acidity rise further, sometimes drying, though in the right setting (like Thai duck noodle soup) the fruit re-emerges to soften the close. The length is quietly impressive, maintaining intensity rather than fading quickly.
Food Pairing
This Shiraz proved unusually flexible across textures — from creamy dairy to salty cured meats and crisp fried dishes.
Persian fetta: Sweetens the wine, highlighting more fruit — almost raspberry. For me it released tannins slightly, while Kiki found them more pronounced.
Cottage cheese: Draws out body and heightens acidity, making the wine feel rounder and more complete.
Prosciutto: Introduces a gentle spike of acidity but keeps the rich fruit prominent at the front of the tongue. Its salt lifts the darker fruit beautifully.
Fried chicken: Retains some sweetness up front, while revealing a glimmer of oak and acidity — the crisp texture helping to frame the fruit.
Sweeter or fattier foods tend to lift both the oak and acidity, but without punishing the palate — the wine adapts, reshaping itself rather than resisting.
At dinner, we tested it with duck prepared two ways:
Tempura duck breast: Oak and acidity came in much stronger, fruit pushed back. The overall effect was drying, showing how easily the wine’s balance can shift with texture.
Thai duck noodle soup: Similar lift in structure, but this time with enough fruit cutting through to balance and refresh. The combination of spice, fat, and sweetness brought the wine back into harmony.
For a Barossa Shiraz, that level of versatility is rare — it’s as comfortable beside rich Western fare as it is with the layered flavours of Asian-style dishes.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
This Shiraz opened with youthful energy — fruit-forward and almost jammy — but showed more dimension as the night went on. For me, the appeal lay in that development: what started as bright and sweet settled into something more structured, with acidity and tannins stepping confidently forward. Kiki appreciated how naturally it worked alongside Asian-style dishes, holding its own with everything from fried chicken at lunch to Thai duck noodle soup at dinner.
Would we drink it again? Yes — especially with food.
Would we cellar it? Possibly for a few years, though it’s drinking beautifully now.
Was it worth opening? Absolutely.
Positioned as a premium Barossa red, it may not be the region’s boldest, but that’s its strength — approachable yet evolving, a wine that grows with food and conversation.
Versatile. Fruit and structure finding their rhythm over time.
Editor’s Note
According to the Vintage Journal South Australian Wine Guide, Strawberry Hill is known for its rich black fruits, cassis, and finely integrated oak, with the 2022 vintage showing length and balance expected to hold until 2034. Our experience echoed many of these qualities but highlighted how much the wine’s personality shifted depending on the food pairing. This balance between fruit and structure is where the real intrigue lies.
–Adrian – Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
