Haselgrove Dileab Shiraz 2020 Review: Structured, Savoury, and Surprisingly Flexible
“Dileab” takes its name from the Celtic word for heritage, a nod to Haselgrove’s agricultural roots and their careful approach to McLaren Vale vineyards. This 2020 release, bottle 3581 of 6018, was drawn from some of the region’s best Shiraz blocks and matured in French oak for 18 months to capture power, structure, and a true expression of place.
We opened it not expecting plushness but to see whether that structure could hold its ground both alone and alongside food.
|
Vintage: |
2020 |
|
Region: |
McLaren Vale, South Australia |
|
Varietal: |
Shiraz |
|
ABV: |
14.8% |
|
RRP: |
$100 AUD |
|
Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
Deep ruby at the core with dense concentration holding through to the rim. Legs are slow and few, sliding down in measured arcs that suggest weight and composure.
Aroma / Nose
Without swirl the nose feels restrained and oak-led. A swirl unlocks more generosity: berries with a soft sweetness, underpinned by wood spice. Haselgrove’s own notes describe plum, mulberry, cedar, and spice; we found echoes of these but framed with more restraint and subtlety than “opulent.”
Palate / Taste
The first sip gives ripe plum before acidity rises and tannins grip. On the swallow, acidity builds, fades, then reappears as a rolling lift at the back of the throat. It’s not the rich blackberry–cassis sweep their notes suggest but something leaner, savoury, structured, and more acid-driven.
Limited release detail: bottle 3581 of 6018 from Haselgrove’s Dileab Shiraz 2020.
Finish
On its own, the balance is lively without drying, “not too dry,” as Kiki remarked. After food, tannins return with more presence, leaving a gentle tingling in the cheeks. Acidity lingers alongside oak for a savoury, persistent close.
Food Pairing
We opened the Dileab over a Saturday night dinner filled with variety: duck, beef, bacon, seafood, and dumplings. The wine adapted at every turn.
Tempura duck let the fruit peek through before acidity and spice (aniseed-like) took over, leaving a warming finish.
Bacon drew out more fruit on the first sip and softened the wine’s sharper edges.
Chicken shumai added a fresh contrast that played well with the acidity without muting it.
Salt and pepper beef mince brought a push and pull between sweet fruit, spice, and savoury lift, settling into a gentle fruit echo.
Grilled salmon was the most surprising pairing. It didn’t clash, but instead amplified the flavour of the fish.
Through it all, tannins softened while acidity and oak stayed firm, holding the wine together. It never overpowered the food, instead weaving through each dish with its own personality. We ended the meal impressed by its composure and flexibility, even its deliberate “harshness.” Not a wine for plush fruit chasers, but a rewarding one for those who love structure and acidity.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
The Haselgrove Dileab Shiraz 2020 stands apart from the plush stereotype of McLaren Vale Shiraz. Where the winery speaks of richness and opulence, we experienced structure, acidity, and savoury cut. It worked.
Would we drink it again? Yes, especially with food.
Would we cellar it? Possibly a few years, though it already drinks beautifully now.
Was it worth opening? Yes. Its tension and adaptability made it a compelling dinner companion.
Structured and savoury. A Shiraz that favours precision over plushness.
Editor’s Note
This tasting was part of a relaxed Saturday dinner where variety met curiosity. The bottle, number 3581 of 6018, became an unplanned experiment in how far structure and acidity could stretch across contrasting dishes. It’s a reminder that sometimes the best tastings happen at home, surrounded by food that tests a wine’s character rather than flatters it.
–Adrian – Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
