Dalwhinnie Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 Review – A Food-First Red from the Pyrenees
Dalwhinnie Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 opens with promise — dark in the glass, quietly fragrant, and unmistakably Pyrenees in character. It’s not a showy wine, but one built on tension: a pulse of fruit sweetness up front that gives way to firm acidity and dry, structured tannins. What begins as measured quickly turns serious, revealing a wine that’s more companion than conversation piece — at its best when food is on the table.
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Vintage: |
2018 |
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Region: |
Pyrenees, Victoria, Australia |
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Varietal: |
Cabernet Sauvignon |
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ABV: |
13.5% |
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RRP: |
~$80 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
In the glass, the Dalwhinnie Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 shows a deep ruby core with a garnet edge. Bright and clean at the rim, the colour suggests youth with a touch of early development.
When swirled, the legs are slow to form but fall quickly, and only a few gather — pointing to moderate alcohol and a lighter texture than its dark hue might first suggest.
Aroma / Nose
Without a swirl, the wine gives a slight fruit funk, restrained and a touch earthy.
With air, it shifts quickly into a more lively, fermented fruit character— almost pure grape skin and must, more raw and direct than layered. It leans toward freshness and vitality rather than oak polish or heavy ripeness.
Palate / Taste
The first impression is a sweetness of fruit on the tongue, a brightness that feels upfront and immediate. This quickly turns more acid-driven, carrying the wine into a firmer, drier register on the way down.
Tannins are assertive, gripping firmly across the cheeks and gums, giving structure and bite without feeling coarse. The balance leans more toward acid and tannin tension than plush fruit weight, though the initial sweetness keeps it from austerity.
Finish
The swallow leaves a dry and firmly tannic impression, with acidity lingering more than fruit. A touch of oak emerges late, though it remains subtle rather than dominating. The overall finish is clean and structured, leaning savoury, with just a trace of that initial fruit sweetness in the background.
Food Pairing
Tasted alongside a mix of cheeses, dips, and roast duck, the Dalwhinnie 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon shows how strongly its structure reacts to salt and fat:
Edam softens the acidity and dryness, leaving a gentle oak note while the cheese flavour lingers in parallel.
Persian fetta allows some sweetness from the wine to push through, while still rounding off the sharper edges of acidity.
White bean & garlic dip and hummus with rosemary cracker accentuate the oak character — possibly more the cracker than the dips themselves — and push the fruit into the background.
Leftover roast duck was the surprise match: it brought a clearer frame to the fruit, a touch more sweetness, and even suggested a different, less oaky woodiness in the flavour.
Overall, the wine seems to work best with salty, savoury foods, which mellow its acidity and tannins while drawing out subtle fruit and oak shifts.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Dalwhinnie’s 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon feels built for the table rather than the glass alone. Its first sip suggests sweetness, but the wine quickly narrows into firm acidity, drying tannins, and oak grip that don’t let go. Food softens it — cheese, salt, and fat draw out nuance, even a little sweetness, and make the structure feel more balanced.
Would we drink it again? With food, yes.
Would we cellar it? Possibly, the structure is there, but it’s drinking beautifully now.
Was it worth opening? Definitely, though only when there’s food alongside it.
Built for food, not for sipping — a structured Cabernet that only shows generosity at the table.
Editor’s Note
Dalwhinnie is widely regarded among the Pyrenees wineries for its high-altitude vineyard and serious reds. The 2018 Moonambel Cabernet Sauvignon has drawn praise from leading critics — Erin Larkin (Robert Parker Wine Advocate) called it “a bit of a marvel,” noting its mineral depth and firm tannin frame, while reviewers at The Wine Front and Halliday Wine Companion described it as elegant, savoury, and classically structured.
We opened this bottle to see how that reputation holds up at the table — whether its structure would stay composed, or soften into something more generous with food.
–Adrian – Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
