Vasse Felix Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 Review: Structured, Food-First Restraint
We opened the Vasse Felix Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 expecting a serious, composed expression from one of the region’s most established producers. In the glass, it quickly reads as a table-driven Cabernet built for intention, not casual sipping. Structure leads the experience early, and restraint outweighs generosity.
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Vintage: |
2022 |
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Region: |
Margaret River, Western Australia |
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Varietal: |
Cabernet Sauvignon |
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ABV: |
14.5% |
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RRP: |
$50+ AUD |
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Format: |
750 ml |
Appearance
In the glass the wine shows a dark ruby core, fading only slightly at the rim with no hint of browning. Clarity is excellent. Dense but clean, with a polished, youthful look.
After swirling, the legs form quickly and fall, suggesting alcohol-driven weight without syrupy viscosity. Visually this reads as a modern Cabernet with firm architecture, framed for the table instead of age-softened ease.
Aroma / Nose
On first nose, with no swirl, the aroma is subtle and reserved, driven more by spice than fruit. It feels composed and slightly closed.
With a swirl, dark berries appear alongside gentle oak and savoury spice, though the fruit remains in a supporting role. Oak presence feels structural, not sweet. Alcohol is noticeable but controlled, reinforcing restraint instead of heat.
Palate / Taste
On first sip, spice edges the palate and sets a firm tone. As the wine moves across the mouth, fine, firm tannins build in layers, gripping the cheeks and gums through density rather than abrasion. The body is unmistakably full.
Dark fruit threads the mid-palate briefly before acidity and a mild bitterness take over, finishing with a warming alcohol presence. There is no sweetness. Oak influence is drying and architectural, contributing shape and control without dominating flavour.
Overall, the wine prioritises framework over openness.
Finish
The finish is tannin-led, lingering through dryness and grip more than flavour. Warmth sits at the back of the throat after swallowing. The wine remains clean but feels incomplete on its own and clearly benefits from food to absorb its edges.
Food Pairing
This Cabernet performs best in a savoury, protein-led setting.
Aged cheddar: Fruit becomes more apparent, acidity softens, and the structure relaxes without tipping into sweetness.
Edam: Similar effect, though oak becomes slightly more noticeable.
Brie with truffle: Rounds the fruit and softens acidity and alcohol, while spice remains on the finish.
Prosciutto: Brings oak and structure forward while calming alcohol warmth.
Wagyu scotch with sweet potato fries and coleslaw: The most comfortable pairing. Acidity drops, tannin grip loosens, and retronasal spikes soften. Fruit stays secondary, but the wine settles into balance.
Bright, high-acid pairings disrupt the balance. Rich meat dishes, particularly those with fat and umami, give the wine the context it needs.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
This Cabernet makes its intentions clear early. It is structured, serious, and designed to behave correctly at the table. With rich food, especially well-marbled beef, it becomes more comfortable, though it never develops into a layered or expressive wine.
By the end of the meal, we would drink it again, but selectively, and always with rich meat dishes. Time in the cellar may soften the edges, yet little suggests additional complexity waiting to emerge.
Opening the bottle felt worthwhile because it clearly defined its lane and performed exactly as intended when paired appropriately.
Structured and food-first, it settles comfortably with richness, but never truly opens up.
Editor’s Note
This tasting reinforced the importance of context. Without food, the wine felt correct but distant. With the right pairing, it found balance and purpose. It is a composed, well-made Cabernet that values structure over expression and rewards intention more than impulse.
Adrian, Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
