Torbreck Woodcutter’s Shiraz 2023: Grip Over Generosity
We opened the 2023 Torbreck Woodcutter’s Shiraz over a long, rainy winter’s lunch—a day made for red wine. The mood called for something bold and comforting, and with its Barossa pedigree and 15% heft, we expected warmth, fruit, and power. What we got was a wine that held back—structured, stern, and not easily coaxed.
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Vintage: |
2023 |
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Region: |
Barossa Valley, SA |
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Varietal: |
Shiraz |
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ABV: |
14.5% |
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RRP: |
$28–32 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
Deep, dark core that holds its colour in dim light. In the glass, fast-forming legs run cleanly and without fanfare, forming smooth arcs that hint at the wine’s higher alcohol but not necessarily richness.
Aroma / Nose
Without a swirl, fruit is muted and closed. But a gentle swirl brings it forward—cherry or plum, maybe—alongside a light dusting of oak. There’s a jammy edge initially, but it never fully blooms. The nose softens over time, growing slightly more expressive, but remains restrained overall.
Palate / Taste
From the first sip, the structure is clear. Tannins grip the gums, alcohol prickles at the back of the throat, and acidity slices through. The fruit is there—but lean, not lush. There’s dryness throughout, and the aftertaste lingers with something green—like grape skin or young stems. It’s not plush or polished. It’s upright, firm, and a little unyielding.
Finish
The finish is long and dry, carried more by grip than flavour. Oak steps in as the fruit fades, and a touch of bitterness lingers. It’s persistent, but not soft.
Food Pairing
We tried a full spread, but nothing entirely tamed the wine.
Cheddar: Still acidic and abrupt for Adrian, while Kiki picked up more sweetness and spice.
Truffle Cheddar: Smoothed out the acidity for Adrian; Kiki found more spice.
Red Leicester: Slight grip release, but still not harmonious.
Prosciutto: Worked reasonably well but left acidity and oak intact.
Honey Ham: Unexpectedly increased grip and oak presence.
Green Olives: Intensified tannic grip.
Cointreau Pâté & Crackers: This was the most promising match—it mellowed the acidity and brought out oak and fruit more clearly.
Still, we felt this wine would fare better with something heartier—slow-cooked meat, a stew, or winter roast.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Torbreck’s Woodcutter’s Shiraz 2023 is a wine of presence, not generosity. It’s firm, dry, and etched with acidity—a bottle that resists easy enjoyment without the right food or the patience to wait.
There’s potential here—perhaps with cellaring—but on this rainy day, it felt rough and ready, not the comfort we were seeking.
Best with food. Better with time. Built for colder nights and richer dishes.
Editor’s Note
We reached for this bottle on a rainy day, hoping for warmth. It didn’t quite meet us there. This is a wine that demands the right conditions—time, food, and maybe a second chance down the line.
–Adrian – Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
