Stonier Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2024 Review: Tart Fruit and a Savoury Turn
The 2024 Stonier Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir is a regional Pinot Noir made from fruit sourced from grower vineyards managed by Stonier. Around 20% whole bunch is used, followed by maturation in 500-litre puncheons with just 8% new oak. Stonier has been making wine on the Mornington Peninsula since 1978 and returned to local family ownership in 2022 after more than two decades away. With limited new oak and selective whole-bunch use, the question going in was how the wine would balance fruit, savoury character and structure, and whether those elements would deliver enough complexity to make its restrained style compelling.
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Vintage: |
2024 |
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Region: |
Mornington Peninsula, Victoria |
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Varietal: |
Pinot Noir |
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ABV: |
13.5% |
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RRP: |
~$44.95 |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
Bright and clear, it pours a translucent medium ruby with a pale rim that picks up a faint tawny tint in certain light. Its transparency suggests little in the way of density or weight. After swirling, the legs form lightly and fall relatively quickly.
Aroma / Nose
Straight from the bottle, the wine opens with a pleasant, lightly jammy red-berry aroma. There is some sweetness without smelling dense or heavily ripe, accompanied by a subtle savoury edge.
Swirling shifts the profile slightly darker, towards cherry, raspberry and perhaps blackberry. Oak isn’t particularly obvious, although there is a gentle woody note alongside light earthiness. Cherry and raspberry remain at the centre of the nose, with the woody and earthy notes adding some depth without making it feel particularly heavy or complex.
Palate / Taste
The palate is noticeably tart from the outset, driven by sour cherry and raspberry that verge on underripe. Acidity quickly establishes itself as a defining feature, bringing freshness while keeping the wine firmly on the sharper side.
It is medium-bodied, with smooth tannins settling across the cheeks and gums without producing a strong or drying grip. The berries lead initially, but the profile changes towards the swallow. At this point it turns more savoury and warming. The initial cherry and raspberry become less distinct, carrying into the broader profile without disappearing altogether.
Finish
A gentle warmth develops at the back of the throat and into the nose after swallowing. The tartness remains, but the finish is less fruit-led than the entry, with savoury notes becoming more prominent.
The smooth tannins provide some lingering structure, while the acidity continues after the berries begin to recede. That sour-to-tart quality remained consistent across the tasting and didn’t noticeably soften with air.
Food Pairing
The Stonier changed relatively little with food. Its underlying profile generally held together, with each dish shifting which elements came forward.
Roast chicken: Worked well and left the wine largely unchanged. The herbs on the chicken appeared to bring slightly more warmth through the finish without disrupting the overall balance.
Flash-fried kale: One of the more interesting combinations. The pairing brought forward the savoury side while noticeably reducing the warmth at the back of the throat. The berries became more muted, but the resulting combination was still enjoyable.
Coleslaw: The least successful pairing. The acidity became more pronounced, pushing the wine further towards tartness and leaving the different elements out of balance.
Spring roll: Allowed the berry notes to remain present while bringing forward a more savoury side. Neither dominated, making for an enjoyable combination.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
The Stonier Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2024 is a composed Pinot, but not one we’d be inclined to buy again. Its red berries, smooth tannins and progression towards a more savoury finish give it plenty to explore, while its underlying profile remained largely consistent on its own and across most of the food pairings.
What ultimately held it back was the persistent sourness. Tart cherry and raspberry established themselves immediately and remained a defining part of the experience instead of softening as the tasting progressed. The structure itself never became particularly rough. The tannins stayed smooth, oak remained restrained and some warmth developed on the finish, but the acidity consistently had more influence than we would have liked.
Drinkers who actively enjoy a tart, acid-led Pinot may find more to appreciate here. We enjoyed exploring the bottle over a meal, but it didn’t leave us wanting another.
Well composed, but the tartness ultimately outweighed the enjoyment.
Editor’s Note
We used a VinoAir aerator when serving the Stonier. This is worth noting because the wine’s tart profile remained consistent throughout the tasting, rather than noticeably softening as the bottle progressed.
Adrian, Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
