St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 Review – Structured and Self-Assured
We opened this bottle on a grey, rainy winter’s afternoon—the kind of weather that makes you crave depth, warmth, and something structured. With a reputation for classic styling and a label that carries weight in the Cabernet world, expectations were set for a refined, oak-led red with a Coonawarra signature.
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Vintage: |
2021 |
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Region: |
Coonawarra, South Australia |
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Varietal: |
Cabernet Sauvignon |
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ABV: |
14.5% |
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RRP: |
~$42 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
Deep ruby core with dark garnet hues toward the rim. The light was dim and overcast, but even under studio lighting, the colour spoke of richness without excess. Legs formed a steady ring—not so much in arcs, but slow and consistent, hinting at its moderate viscosity.
Aroma / Nose
Without swirl: dark fruit and a quiet layer of vanilla. With swirl: the nose opened—more dark fruit, hints of wood, and a subtle sweetness suggesting raspberry or ripe plum. Oak is present but integrated. Overall, the bouquet feels measured and composed.
Palate / Taste
First taste: tannins gather steadily along the cheeks and gums. It’s dry, oaky, and structured—but not overly acidic. There’s a slight sharpness on the swallow, but it’s not harsh.
The texture isn’t silky, yet avoids coarseness. Fruit is more muted on the palate than the nose suggests. This is a wine that holds its shape rather than rushing to impress.
Finish
The finish is firm with lingering oak and tannins. There’s no fruit flourish here—it fades with a steady dryness and a slight herbaceous note. It leaves an impression of clarity and structure, but not emotional warmth.
Food Pairing
We paired this with a range of cheeses and cured meats:
Cheddar: Brought sweetness to the nose, but not the tongue. It mellowed the swallow but left the oak standing firm.
Truffle Cheese: Complimented the wine’s savouriness and teased out a subtle hint of berry.
Red Leicester: Increased salivation and softened the edges without muting character.
Prosciutto: Reintroduced a bit of acid and oak grip—balanced but more assertive.
Honey Ham: Introduced a peppery or herbal lift.
Cointreau Pâté on Crackers: Surprising synergy—fruit came forward, oak remained, but harshness dropped away.
The wine didn’t bond fully with any single food, but it played respectfully with each one. It adapts—but doesn’t transform.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
The 2021 St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon feels true to type—structured, dry, and firmly oaked. While the fruit plays a quieter role than expected, there’s clarity in the execution and a seriousness that rewards attention.
Food helped it unfold, but nothing unlocked a full transformation. It remained composed, steady, a little introverted. Still, we’d return to it—curious to see how it behaves with heartier fare, maybe a stew or something slow-cooked.
We’d buy it again. But it wasn’t love at first sip.
Structured and self-assured. Built for tradition, not charm.
Editor’s Note
This review reflects our personal tasting experience at home, opened during a winter afternoon and paired with a mix of cheeses and charcuterie. The bottle was purchased independently and was not gifted or sponsored. As always, ATC reviews focus on what we actually tasted, how it felt to drink—and whether it was worth the splurge.
–Adrian – Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
