Penfolds Max’s Shiraz Review: Acidic, Grippy, and Unapologetically Direct
Penfolds Max’s Shiraz 2022 carries a quiet reverence within its uniform red-capsule bottles—an homage to Max Schubert, the original creator of Grange. It arrives with understated visual cues, but a reputation that nudges expectations upward. After recently tasting the Shiraz Cabernet from the same range, we approached this bottle with curiosity.
|
Vintage: |
2022 |
|
Region: |
South Australia |
|
Varietal: |
Shiraz |
|
ABV: |
14.5% |
|
RRP: |
~$30–35 AUD |
|
Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
In low light, it appears nearly opaque, but under stronger lighting, it reveals a gorgeously clear ruby-red core. The legs are quick to form and fast running—signs of youthful energy and moderate alcohol. No arcs or slow drips to suggest weight or glycerol-heavy texture.
Aroma / Nose
The nose opens gently—soft, almost reserved. Oak is barely present at first. Fruit sits forward but eludes easy classification, though over time it evolves into something resembling plum or perhaps stone fruit. There’s the faintest wisp of dark chocolate or mocha if you go looking. It’s not a showy bouquet—more of a slow burn.
Palate / Taste
The first sip lands with more grip than expected. Tannins take hold on the gums and tongue, and the wine warms the chest on the way down. There’s a slight punch of alcohol at the back of the throat—more potent than the nose implies—but it doesn’t overwhelm.
Flavour-wise, the wine leans dry and shows some acidity. Not much oak shows through initially. Fruit notes aren’t especially sweet, but there’s a whisper of nectarine or ripe plum that lingers on the finish. With food, the acidity asserts itself and some of the hidden layers begin to stir.
Finish
The finish is punchy and dry, with a persistent tickle of acidity at the back of the throat. Tannins mellow slightly over time, especially after pairing with food, but the structure remains firm. This wine leaves more presence than flavour—its memory is one of grip and stamina.
Food Pairing
Cheddar: Softens the dryness and acidity slightly. A touch of fruit sweetness emerges on the tongue, and freshness lifts in the nose.
Prosciutto: Accentuates acidity. Oak becomes more pronounced, and the fruit recedes.
Honey Ham: Loosens the tannins somewhat, but the wine remains punchy. Not a perfect match—something clashes in the mid-palate.
Overall: The wine stays bold against the food. The acidity and dryness hold firm and are not easily tamed. We used an air pourer, but a longer decanting might’ve allowed the fruit to bloom more fully.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Penfolds Max’s Shiraz 2022 is a study in controlled tension. It doesn’t gush fruit, nor does it lean heavily into oak. Instead, it grips, holds, and builds slowly. There’s finesse here—but it asks you to wait for it. With food, it held its ground but didn’t always harmonise. The wine’s strength lies more in its structure than its immediacy.
Would we drink it again? Perhaps—with the right dish.
Would we cellar it? Not likely.
Was it worth opening? Yes, for the experience.
Bold in structure, but guarded with its charm.
Editor’s Note
Kiki and I opened this bottle over a slow May lunch—cheddar, prosciutto, honey ham, and a shared curiosity. The wine held its ground. Cheddar softened things slightly, but prosciutto pulled the acidity forward, and honey ham clashed at the edges. Even with an air pourer, the fruit stayed tucked behind bold oak and firm dryness. This wasn’t a polished tasting or a sponsored feature—just a bottle opened with intent, and a table set for two.
–Adrian – Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
