Penfolds Bin 23 Pinot Noir 2021 Review: A Cool Climate Expression with Balance and Polish
Penfolds Bin 23 is Penfolds’ cool-climate take on Pinot Noir, sourced from Tasmania and shaped with the house’s familiar polish. Pinot can easily lean too delicate or too heavily worked in the winery, so we approached this bottle with curiosity rather than expectation. It ended up opening alongside a casual Sunday lunch, which proved to be a surprisingly revealing way to see what the wine could do.
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Vintage: |
2021 |
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Region: |
Tasmania |
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Varietal: |
Pinot Noir |
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ABV: |
13.5% |
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RRP: |
$45+ AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
Brilliant ruby core that fades gradually to a translucent rim, light yet vibrant. In the glass, the colour carries a warm red glow with a touch of garnet at the edges. Clarity is excellent, showing no haze or sediment.
Legs form slowly before running quickly, suggesting balanced alcohol and a supple texture rather than weight.
Aroma / Nose
Without a swirl, the nose opens with gentle spice, subtle and composed, with restrained red berry notes beneath.
Once swirled, the spice softens and brighter aromatics emerge. Fresh red fruit lifts from the glass alongside a faint trace of vanilla, though oak influence remains restrained.
Palate / Taste
The opening impression leans slightly sweet, almost jammy, before structure begins to show. Tannins grip lightly across the cheeks and gums, giving form without heaviness. A lift of spice and acidity appears on the swallow, rising into the nasal passage and leaving a gentle warmth behind.
It feels expressive yet controlled, with Penfolds’ familiar polish framing the wine rather than overtaking it.
Finish
It lingers with a gentle mix of red fruit and spice, the warmth carrying upward with a soft nasal tingle. The aftertaste remains balanced, neither heavy nor sharp, simply a reminder of what came before. The fade is steady and composed, matching the wine’s overall structure.
Food Pairing
With cold roast beef, the fruit recedes and structure steps forward, still present but more as an echo than the lead.
Edam draws a touch of sweetness to the front of the palate before a small kick of spice returns on the swallow.
Sweet potato reveals more oak character, though it stays integrated rather than rigid.
Asian-style pork balls bring warmth and savoury spice, while dried apricots show a softer side. Gentle sweetness cradles the tongue before acidity and oak glide in to finish.
What stands out most is the wine’s flexibility. The fruit character never disappears; it returns with each sip, keeping the wine open and forgiving.
This was not a carefully planned pairing, just a mix of Sunday leftovers turned into a light lunch. Even so, the wine handled every flavour with ease.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Even without deep Pinot experience, this feels right. Structured, polished, and easy to appreciate with food. The red fruit, spice, and aromatic lift give it personality without excess. Kiki described it simply as a good wine for food, and that proved accurate. It sits comfortably beside a meal without dominating it.
Would we drink it again? Absolutely.
Would we cellar it? Not necessary, this feels ready now.
Was it worth opening? Without question.
A confident expression of Penfolds’ approach to Pinot Noir, measured, food-friendly, and easy to return to.
Steady, savoury, and sure of itself. A Pinot that settles naturally into the table.
Editor’s Note
Even with this mishmash of leftovers turned into a light lunch, the wine found its footing. It adapted to every flavour and never lost its charm, a reminder that good wine doesn’t always need the perfect pairing to show what it can do.
–Adrian – Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
