Penfolds Bin 23 Pinot Noir 2021 Review – A Cool-Climate Expression with Balance and Polish
Bin 23 represents Penfolds’ exploration of Pinot Noir through a modern lens. The 2021 vintage is a single-region expression sourced from esteemed cool-climate vineyards in Tasmania. It delivers generous fruit and perfumed aromatics, balanced by silky tannins and a measured sense of structure. True to Penfolds form, it blends varietal purity with a touch of house-style polish.
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Vintage: |
2021 |
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Region: |
Tasmania |
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Varietal: |
Pinot Noir |
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ABV: |
13.5% |
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RRP: |
~$45–55 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
Brilliant ruby core that fades gradually to a translucent rim, light yet vibrant. In the glass, the colour carries a warm red glow with a touch of garnet at the edges. Clarity is excellent, showing no haze or sediment.
Legs form slowly before running quickly, suggesting balanced alcohol and a supple texture rather than weight.
Aroma / Nose
Without a swirl, the nose shows spice first, subtle and composed, with quiet fruit underneath.
Once swirled, the spice retreats and the fruit takes centre stage. Fresh, lifted red fruit appears with a faint trace of vanilla, though not much oak influence.
Legs form slowly but then run quickly, hinting at balanced alcohol and moderate body.
Palate / Taste
The first impression leans slightly sweet, almost jammy, before structure begins to show. Tannins grip lightly across the cheeks and gums, giving form without heaviness. A spike of spice and acidity lifts on the swallow, rising through the nose and leaving a gentle warmth behind.
It’s expressive but measured, with that hallmark Penfolds polish framing the fruit rather than overtaking it.
Finish
It lingers with a gentle mix of fruit and spice, the warmth carrying through the nose with a soft tingle. The aftertaste stays balanced, neither heavy nor sharp, just a quiet reminder of what came before. There’s poise in how it fades: measured, satisfying, and consistent with its calm structure throughout.
Food Pairing
With cold roast beef, the fruit backs off and structure steps forward, still present but more as an echo than a lead.
Edam draws the sweetness forward, rounding the front of the palate before a slight kick of spice returns on the swallow.
Sweet potato teases out more oak, yet it feels integrated rather than rigid, an interesting shift in tone.
Asian-style pork balls bring warmth and spice, while dried apricots reveal a softer side: fruit and sweetness cradle the tongue before acidity and oak glide in to finish.
What stands out most is its flexibility. The fruit never disappears, even through varied flavours; it quietly reappears with each sip, keeping the wine open and forgiving.
This wasn’t a curated meal, just a mix of Sunday leftovers, yet the wine handled every turn with ease.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Even without deep Pinot experience, this feels right: balanced, composed, and easy to appreciate with food. The fruit, spice, and gentle lift through the nose give it personality without excess. Kiki called it a good wine for food, and she’s right: it carries itself gracefully beside a meal, never dominating, never fading.
Would we drink it again? Absolutely.
Would we cellar it? Not necessary, this feels ready now.
Was it worth opening? Without question.
A composed expression of Penfolds’ hand in Pinot, measured, food-ready, and worth returning to.
Steady, savoury, and sure of itself—a Pinot that earns its place at the table.
Editor’s Note
Even with this mishmash of leftovers turned into a light lunch, the wine found its footing. It adapted to every flavour and never lost its charm, a reminder that good wine doesn’t always need the perfect pairing to show what it can do.
–Adrian – Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
