Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz Mataro 2018: A Steady Hand in a Loud Region
A heritage label from one of Australia’s most recognisable names, Penfolds Bin 2 brings together Shiraz weight and Mataro’s savoury edge. It’s a style the winery has refined since the 1960s, rarely the headline but consistently dependable. The 2018 release leans mature and spice-led, with little interest in modern gloss, settling into a restrained and deliberate expression of the style.
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Vintage: |
2018 |
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Region: |
South Australia |
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Varietal: |
Shiraz Mataro |
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ABV: |
14.5% |
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RRP: |
From $40 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
In the glass, it shows a deep crimson-ruby core with a soft garnet rim, signalling some development. Legs are long with moderate pace, pointing to measured alcohol and a structured frame.
Aroma / Nose
The nose opens on savoury tones and spice, led by white pepper and clove, followed by a light earthy note that adds depth without weight. Fruit sits behind this, red-toned rather than rich, with raspberry and sour cherry supported by a subtle plum note. There is no obvious sweetness or oak gloss, just a balanced, grounded profile.
Palate / Taste
The entry is firm and controlled, with acidity and spice arriving early to set a structured tone rather than a plush one. Through the mid-palate, sour plum and oak begin to layer in, while tannins build steadily along the gums and cheeks, holding their position without turning coarse.
There is some warmth on the swallow, noticeable but not sharp, easing slightly with each sip. On the exhale, a faint stone fruit character appears, more textural than flavour-driven, reminiscent of dried apricot skin or peach pit. The wine carries itself through shape and tension rather than generosity.
Finish
The finish is long and structure-led, with tannin and spice carrying through as fruit recedes quickly. It lingers as a dry, persistent presence rather than a flavour echo, showing little evolution in the glass and instead maintaining a steady, consistent line.
Food Pairing
This wine came into its own with food. On its own, it leans firm and restrained, but alongside the right pairings it starts to open and make more sense.
Cheddar softened the acidity and rounded the edges
Red Leicester drew out a subtle sweetness through the mid-palate
Prosciutto and ham reinforced the savoury profile and lifted the spice
Apricot and almond cheese pushed acidity and structure forward, more assertive than harmonious
Olives had little impact, neither clashing nor enhancing
Best with slow-cooked meats, firm cheeses, and earthy dishes. It doesn’t melt into the meal, it sits beside it, holding its shape.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Yes, if you value structure over softness.
This is not a wine for casual drinking or immediate appeal on its own, but with the right meal it comes into focus. It holds its shape, complements savoury food, and delivers a restrained, mature expression of the style.
We would drink it again with food. We would not rush to cellar it. And it felt worth opening, though not compelling enough to actively seek out again.
Firm, savoury, and restrained. A food-first red that earns respect more than affection.
Editor’s Note
This review reflects our experience with the Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz Mataro 2018, tasted across multiple sittings at home. As always, the focus is on what we actually experienced, how it paired with food, and whether it felt worth the splurge.
Adrian, Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
