John Duval Wines ‘Plexus’ 2022 GSM Review: Balance Over Power, Better with food
John Duval’s Plexus has long carried a quiet prestige in the Barossa. As the first release under his own label, it reflects a shift away from sheer weight toward restraint and balance. The 2022 GSM continues that direction. It feels serious enough to sit with a meal, yet approachable enough to open without occasion.
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Vintage: |
2022 |
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Region: |
Barossa Valley, SA |
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Varietal: |
Shiraz (49%), Grenache (34%), Mourvèdre (17%) |
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ABV: |
14.5% |
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RRP: |
From $40 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
Deep ruby at the core, fading to crimson at the rim. Clear and bright in the glass, with moderate movement that suggests structure without heaviness.
Aroma / Nose
Black plum and blackberry lead, followed by a gentle lift of spice. The profile is clean and controlled rather than overtly rich. Oak sits quietly in the background here, not immediately apparent, with no noticeable alcohol heat.
Palate / Taste
Ripe dark fruit arrives first, spreading across the front of the palate with a sense of generosity that stops short of jamminess. As the wine moves through, warmth builds gradually, staying measured rather than dominant.
Tannins settle across the cheeks and gums with a broad, drying grip. Oak becomes more visible here as a fine layer of spice through the mid-palate. A line of acidity carries the structure forward, keeping everything in check and preventing the wine from tipping into heaviness.
The progression feels deliberate. Fruit, warmth, structure, and spice unfold in sequence, each element holding its place without crowding the others.
Finish
The finish leans dry and structured, with spice and acidity lingering longer than the fruit. There is still a trace of dark fruit at the end, though it sits behind the structure rather than leading it. Perception varied slightly. At times the fruit carried through, while at others the acidity and dryness took the lead. Either way, the wine holds its presence, more through shape than sweetness.
Food Pairing
This is where the wine settles in.
Cheddar: Initially muted the profile, but a second sip brought everything back into focus
Salt and pepper duck: The turning point. The savoury edge sharpened, and the structure tightened into place
Bacon: Lifted a subtle sweetness, balanced by a clean line of acidity
Truffle cheddar: Brief, but enough to highlight an earthy depth
Sweet potato: An unusual pairing that mirrored the wine’s ripeness, with a faint woody note underneath
It performs well on its own, but with food, it becomes more complete.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Yes, particularly if it’s heading to the table.
Plexus 2022 doesn’t chase impact. It leans into balance, structure, and control, and it rewards the right setting. The contrast in tasting only reinforces that point. Depending on what you focus on, it can present as fruit-forward or structure-led, but it never loses its composure.
We would buy it again, and it feels like a safe candidate to revisit with a bit of time in the cellar.
Balanced, structured, and quietly persuasive. Built for the table, not the spotlight.
Editor’s Note
After decades at Penfolds, including 16 years as Chief Winemaker, John Duval launched his own label in 2003. Plexus was the starting point. The 2022 was opened over dinner to see how it sits today. One reading leaned toward fruit and warmth, the other toward structure and acidity. The shared conclusion was simple. It belongs with food, and it’s worth revisiting over time.
Adrian, Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
