John Duval Wines ‘Plexus’ 2022 GSM Review – A Study in Balance from a Barossa Icon
John Duval’s Plexus has long held a quiet prestige in the Barossa—crafted by a former Penfolds Chief Winemaker with a talent for restrained blends. This 2022 release, a Shiraz Grenache Mourvèdre (SGM), promises balance over brawn. It’s serious enough to warrant slow drinking, but inviting enough to open without ceremony.
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Vintage: |
2022 |
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Region: |
Barossa Valley, SA |
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Varietal: |
Shiraz (49%), Grenache (34%), Mourvèdre (17%) |
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ABV: |
14.5% |
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RRP: |
$45 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
Deep ruby at the core with a gradual fade into crimson at the rim. The wine is clear and reflective, with no signs of haze. Legs fall quickly on the glass—suggesting a moderate viscosity and perhaps a leaner, more energetic frame than the ABV might suggest.
Aroma / Nose
Dark fruit leads the nose—think black plum and blackberry—backed by a subtle but persistent spice lift. It feels clean and composed rather than overtly rich, with no obvious oak or alcohol heat. Early signs point to a wine that’s more about tension than opulence.
Palate / Taste
Luscious dark fruit lands early, with a sweetness that spreads across the front of the tongue—ripe without feeling jammy. As it moves back, warmth begins to build gently in the chest, never aggressive. Tannins take hold at the cheeks and gums, offering a broad, drying grip that feels deliberate.
There’s oak-driven spice anchoring the mid-palate—subtle, but present. A flick of acidity carries things forward, and a slight alcohol kick appears at the back of the throat on the swallow. Altogether, it’s a wine that builds in layers: fruit, warmth, grip, and spice—each distinct but well-aligned.
Finish
The finish is structured, leaning dry with a lingering trace of spice and acidity. For me, a touch of dark fruit held on after the swallow—just enough to round out the experience. Kiki found the acidity more prominent, with less fruit persistence. Either way, the wine doesn’t fade quickly—it stays present, more in structure than in sweetness.
Food Pairing
We started with a wedge of cheddar, and the first sip lost its fruit—muted, momentarily. But with a second sip, the dark fruit returned, reasserting itself confidently.
Salt and pepper fried duck was where the wine opened up: its savoury core stepped forward, with the tannins, acidity, and oak all tightening their grip in harmony. It felt like the wine had found its footing.
Bacon was the surprise—bringing out a sweetness and fruitiness Kiki noticed immediately. For me, that same sweetness returned, but it was met with a flick of acidity on the swallow that kept things balanced.
The truffle cheddar was a fleeting experiment—too little to dive deep, but just enough for the wine to tease out the earthy, humming richness of the truffle.
And the sweet potato? It was a curious match. Its natural sweetness mirrored the wine’s fruit, but there was also a woody undertone in the pairing—something harder to define but intriguing all the same.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
Plexus 2022 sparked two interpretations. For me, it offered fruit, grip, and warmth in steady layers. For Kiki, the acidity stood out more, and the fruit felt harder to find. But the common ground? It played beautifully with food. Every pairing seemed to unlock something—tannin, spice, sweetness, or savoury depth.
We would both buy it again. It feels generous but structured, elegant but not aloof. I’ll be tucking a couple of bottles away to see what time reveals.
A poised Barossa blend—built for the table, and likely to win a few converts.
Editor’s Note
After decades shaping Penfolds—including 16 years as Chief Winemaker—John Duval launched his own label in 2003. Plexus was his first release, and it remains the foundation of his Barossa vision.
We opened the 2022 over dinner, curious to see where it stands now. One of us found fruit and warmth. The other, acidity and grip. But both agreed: it belongs at the table—and in the cellar.
–Adrian – Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
