Henschke Keyneton Euphonium 2021 Review – Structure Over Showmanship
A bottle of quiet authority. The name alone—Euphonium—signals something layered, sonorous, orchestral. You don’t open a Henschke on a whim; it’s a wine with lineage and structure. We opened the 2021 vintage with a sense of reverence—and curiosity. How would it perform beside its reputation?
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Vintage: |
2021 |
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Region: |
Barossa, South Australia |
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Varietal: |
Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot |
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ABV: |
14.5% |
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RRP: |
~$60 AUD |
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Format: |
750mL |
Appearance
This wine in the glass shows a deep garnet core with a vivid ruby rim—bright and youthful. There’s excellent clarity for a wine of this structure, with light passing cleanly through the edges. Legs are sparse and quick to fall, suggesting moderate viscosity without excess weight. A clean, confident pour—vibrant but not opaque.
Aroma / Nose
Initial aromas are fruit and spice-led, with dark berries and a flicker of pepper or clove sitting front and centre. But once swirled, the nose blooms dramatically—becoming richer, rounder, and almost sweet. There’s a sense of ripeness that wasn’t obvious at first; blackcurrant or stewed plum emerges, backed by a soft warmth. It feels layered, and responsive—a nose that rewards attention without overstating itself.
Palate / Taste
The first impression is rich with dark fruit—blackberry, plum, perhaps even a touch of black cherry. It’s fruity without being sweet, concentrated but not sticky. The texture leans plush, but the tannins grip the cheeks firmly, adding structure and restraint.
There’s a clear spice and oak presence, but it’s carried more by acidity than weight—with a lift at the back that almost rises through the nose, leaving a spiced, aromatic echo. This isn’t a heavy wine, but it moves with impact—layered, rising, tapering.
Finish
The finish carries both presence and persistence. Fruit gives way to oak and spice, then rises again with a soft acidity that lingers in the back of the palate. The tannins—though grippy upfront—fade cleanly with food, particularly with truffle cheeses. There’s a light aromatic lift that continues through the nose, subtle but sustained. Not flashy, not abrupt—a finish that knows how to hold the room without overstaying.
Food Pairing
Tasted alongside a selection of cheeses and charcuterie, the wine showed range but also preference—spice, fruit, and acidity each rising or receding depending on the match.
Aged Cheddar: Softened the fruit, dialled up the spice.
Red Leicester: Let the fruit return while maintaining the oak’s firmness.
Truffle Brie: Dropped the back-palate spice, brought the flavour forward, and enhanced the truffle.
Truffle Cheddar: Similar effect—lower acidity, softened tannins, and deeper fruit, with a lingering savoury richness.
Of all the pairings, the truffle Brie and cheddar synced best—drawing the wine closer to earth, yet letting its richness shine.
Meats told a different story:
Prosciutto revived acidity—similar to aged cheddar’s influence.
Honey Ham revealed surprising harmony—subtle sweetness and aromatic lift.
Cointreau Chicken Pâté flipped the dynamic entirely—the wine unpacked more layers in the pâté than the other way around.
ATC Verdict: Is It Worth the Splurge?
This vintage of Keyneton Euphonium doesn’t chase attention—it earns it. Rich, layered, and impeccably structured, it rewards slow exploration over immediate flash. The fruit is bold but not brash, the spice controlled but persistent. With food—especially truffle cheeses—it reveals unexpected harmony, drawing the wine into a deeper, more grounded rhythm.
Would we open another bottle? Absolutely. But not casually. It asks for time and gives something back in return.
Structured, sonorous, and quietly commanding. A wine that leads without noise.
Editor’s Note
While Henschke is often associated with icon-tier bottles, Keyneton Euphonium sits at the intersection of prestige and accessibility—a blend built with intention, not indulgence.
We approached this vintage with food, time, and restraint—measuring not just flavour, but feeling. What emerged wasn’t flash or flamboyance, but something far more enduring.
–Adrian – Editor at All That Is Cool
Please drink responsibly.
All alcohol reviews on All That Is Cool are intended for audiences aged 18+. We support mindful, moderate consumption and only feature bottles we’ve personally tasted and evaluated.
